Photography News

AI image generators are making images that look like photographs, and it’s pushing you to ask what part of your work is skill, taste, or just access to a tool like Photoshop. That question hits even harder when a prompt can produce something that passes at a glance, whether it’s going on your website, a client deck, or a social feed.

[ Read More ]

Photoshop just added two adjustment layers that used to force a detour through Camera Raw: “Clarity and Dehaze” and “Grain.” If you edit photos and rely on selective control, the shift is that these effects now live where masks, stacking, and quick revisions are already part of your daily flow.

[ Read More ]

 

A pet is just like any other subject in terms of photography technique - composition, focusing and exposure being the three main areas to perfect, the fourth, and most problematic, is getting subject participation. If you position your cat/dog then get your camera out their inquisitive nature will drive them to come right up to the camera and sniff the lens. You move away and they'll follow. Sit them in a convenient spot and they'll bounce back. Frustrated? You will be! 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

You can, of course, spend time training them to obey, but the fact of life is most of us have a pet as a companion and training is the last thing on the agenda. So, what can you do? Here are a few basic tips to get you started: 

  1. Give The Dog A Bone

Give your pet something to take their mind of the camera. The only problem now is they will be chewing or playing around and are highly unlikely to look at you, let alone the camera.

 

2. Use A Squeaky Toy

Use a squeaky toy to attract their attention. Place it behind the camera so they look in the right direction. The bone they're chewing will be more interesting, but at least they will look up long enough for you to fire the shutter. Act quickly and make sure you get the shot in the first or second take as they'll soon get wise or bored of your attention-seeking activity.

 

 

3. Wait Until The Right Moment 

Cats and dogs are easy to catch out when they are sleepy. Time for the squeaky toy again. Just as they're nodding off squeak the toy and you'll get a moment of alertness. Which means you can get two shots: one where they're alert and the other relaxed. 

 

4. Ask A Friend

You could ask someone else to entertain the pet while you walk around taking the photos. Try to keep the person out of the frame and the shots will be more natural.

 

5. Exposure Issues?

Take care when photographing an animal with dark or light fur as their coats can fool your camera's meter. A pet with a white coat can end up looking dull as the camera thinks the scene is too bright while a pet with a black coat can end up looking grey due to your camera thinking the scene is darker than it is. If you find this to be a problem just use exposure compensation to use a + or - exposure depending on your circumstances.

 

6. Focusing Tips 

As with people photography, focus on the eyes for the attention-grabbing shots but don't forget a dog with a long snout will need more depth of field when shooting close up to prevent the tip of the nose is out of focus. Take your shots using a small aperture to avoid this or shoot when their head is turned to one side.

 

 

7. Keep An Eye On Your Backgrounds

Watch out for bright backgrounds that could affect the meter reading. Try to take the shot with a neutral background that isn't distracting and, like people photography, avoid trees and telegraph poles growing out of heads.

 

8. Capture Action Shots

Try using a slow shutter speed with flash and panning with the animal as it moves to create abstract slow sync flash shots that create a sense of action. You can also use flash to freeze the animal as it moves through your frame. For a shot of a dog jumping into the air, for example, follow the dog through its tracks and fire the shutter when its feet are off the ground. Again, it helps if you have a friend with you to help encourage the dog to do tricks while you move around and capture the action.

 

9. Using Flash

Humans are not the only ones who suffer from devilish looking eyes when the flash is used. Pets eyes appear bright green when flash has reflected. Just as you do with people, you can remove the unwanted colour from the eyes in Photoshop.

 

 

10. Photographing Fish

If you have fish in a tank you need to move up close to the glass to avoid reflections and use the natural light to take the photo. In daylight, the shots will come out okay but shoot under the light used to illuminate the tank and you'll get a colour cast.

If you have to step back from the tank to photograph the fish from a distance you will get reflections from the glass. In such cases, a polarising filter will help prevent reflections. Attach it to the camera and rotate until the reflections are minimised and then take the photo. You may find shooting from an angle to the glass will work best.

Fish in outdoor ponds can benefit from the use of a polariser too. Take them when they are near to the surface - feeding time is ideal, and use the polariser to kill the reflections. Shoot from an angle to allow some depth to the fish.

Even in summer, the darkness of the water will make the shutter speed quite slow so shoot when the fish are still and hold the camera very steady to prevent camera shake when working hand-held. 

 

11. Capturing Shots Of Smaller Pets

Let's not forget our small friends such as hamsters guinea pigs and mice who are all cage based and eager to bury themselves in straw. 

The main problem with these pets is one, getting close enough and two, avoiding a picture framed with bars. A good option is to photograph the creature in someone's hand, which gets over the cage problem. Then you need a lens that will go close enough so you can fill the frame with the animal. 

If you don't trust the hand approach move really close to the cage and use a wider aperture to throw the bars out of focus. Or shoot through the cage with the door open. 

Try experimenting with slow speeds on a hamster running on a wheel as you may be able to get the legs blurred and the head sharp, giving a great sense of movement. A shutter speed of around 1/8th sec should be about right for this.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

Every year, I make it a ritual to look back at the photographs I’ve taken—not just to see if I ended up with a set of images I’m actually happy with, but to understand what they say about me. Reviewing a year’s worth of images can reveal patterns you didn’t know were there: the subjects you’re drawn to, the way you use light, the emotions you chase. It’s an honest reflection of who you are as a photographer—and who you’re becoming.

[ Read More ]

Most photographers are now "hybrid creators. Besides taking still photos, they also need to create high-quality videos. However, shooting great video is often harder than it looks. Technical issues like low resolution, shaky shots, or digital noise can easily ruin a perfect moment. These common problems often make professional-looking results feel out of reach for many photographers.

Are you also troubled by these issues? This post explores how AI video enhancement can help photographers fix common video problems and streamline their workflow. Let’s get started.

 

 

What are Video Quality Problems Photographers Face

 

Even experienced professionals regularly encounter footage that is technically usable but visually disappointing. In fast-paced commercial, wedding, or travel shoots, there is rarely time for multiple retakes, and lighting conditions are often beyond full control.

Some of the most common video quality problems photographers face include:

• Heavy Digital Noise: When shooting in low-light environments like weddings or indoor events, increasing the ISO often leads to "grainy" video. Unlike film grain, this digital noise looks messy and reduces the professional feel of your work.
• Low Resolution from Older Gear: You might have a great new camera, but your older "B-roll" cameras or drones might only shoot in 1080p. When mixed with 4K footage, these lower-resolution clips look blurry and out of place.
• Soft Focus and Blurry Details: It’s easy to slightly miss the focus on a moving subject. In the past, a soft-focus video clip was a "throwaway," as traditional sharpening tools only made the video look "plastic" and artificial.
• Shaky and Unstable Footage: Handheld shooting adds a nice vibe, but too much camera shake can make viewers feel dizzy. Built-in stabilization often crops the image too much, losing important parts of your frame.

While these problems used to be permanent, the rise of AI technology has started changing the game. Instead of deleting imperfect footage, photographers can now "rescue" it during the editing process.

 

How AI Video Enhancer Improves a Photographer’s Workflow

 

AI video enhancer isn't just about adding a filter; it’s about using smart technology to "rebuild" the missing parts of your video. Let’s look at some real-life ways this helps photographers:

Case 1: The "High-ISO" Rescue. Imagine you shot a beautiful evening ceremony, but the shadows are full of noise. An AI enhancer can analyze the frames to separate noise from real detail, giving you a clean, crisp look that looks like it was shot with a much more expensive lens.

Case 2: Matching Different Cameras. A photographer might use a high-end mirrorless camera for the main interview and a small action camera for a different angle. AI can upscale the action camera’s footage to match the sharpness and 4K resolution of the main camera, making the whole project look consistent.

Case 3: Reviving Family History. Many photographers are asked to help with legacy projects. By taking a grainy, 20-year-old family video and running it through an AI model, you can restore facial details and remove old "tape noise," creating a 4K version that looks like it was filmed yesterday.

To help photographers handle these tasks with ease, many AI video enhancement tools have emerged. A prime example is EaseMate AI‘s video enhancer. It allows creators to instantly convert low-quality videos to 4K clarity. It can sharpen fine details, correct colors, and reduce digital noise automatically, making your footage look more appealing, credible, and professional.

You just need to upload the video you want to optimize into the enhancer, determine the video quality, and hit “Generate”. Then you can preview the video and download it with no watermark.

 

 

Best Practices for Photographers to Use AI Video Enhancers

 

Using AI tools is exciting, but the goal is to enhance your work, not make it look artificial. To get the best results, you need to treat AI as a partner in your digital darkroom. Here are several practical tips to help you maintain a professional, high-quality look while saving time in post-production:

• Enhance before color grading: Run your footage through the AI before adding heavy filters or LUTs. AI works best when it can "see" the original pixels clearly.
• Don't over-sharpen: It’s tempting to dial everything to 100%, but "less is more." Keep some natural texture so your video doesn't look like a video game.
• Preview moving parts: Always check a few seconds of action, like a person walking or water moving. Make sure the AI is keeping the motion smooth and consistent.
• Save your originals: Technology moves fast. Keep your original clips so you can re-process them in the future as AI models get even better.

 

To Sum Up

 

AI video enhancement tools are becoming an important part of how photographers manage increasing video demands. They help photographers rescue flawed footage, accelerate editing workflows, and enable higher-quality video delivery. With thoughtful use and the right software, AI can transform video from a post-production headache into a creative advantage.

 

Previously we've talked about setting yourself a colour challenge but if you want a challenge that's slightly shorter or fancy taking on a few throughout the year, have a go at our one lens challenge. 
 

Basically, we want you to select one lens, yes just one, go for a walk, take a series of shots then share them with ePz. Try to make it a lens you've not used for a while, or one that takes you out of your comfort zone.

A lens with a fixed focal length would be our choice for this but if you only have a zoom take that along and pick just one focal length to use. If you don't, it won't be much of a challenge! If you're not a DSLR owner or you are but don't fancy carrying it around with you, don't worry as a compact will be just as useful for this task.

Above: Will you choose a wide-angle or more telephoto focal length to work with? 

Working hand-held shouldn't be a problem but if it's a particularly dull day or you just like having a little extra support take a tripod along. As you're only using one lens there's no real reason to take a bag along but do pocket some spare batteries and a polarising, UV and ND filter as you never know when they'll come in handy. Polarising filters are great for reducing glare and an ND filter can help slow shutter speeds, too.

Wildlife or going more specific, birds and ducks could be a theme you choose for your project. 

Before you start snapping away you really need to think about what you're going to photograph because without a zoom your focal length is limited so rather than relying on the lens to do the work you have to get those grey cells warmed up and your feet moving to find a position/shot that works.

Try shooting a variety of subjects or why not set yourself a theme? Photograph a series of portraits – your neighbours, butcher, postman or combine two challenges together and only photograph items of a certain colour with a fixed focal length. Try making it even more challenging by only taking a single shot for each of the items/people/animals you pick to photograph.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

A do-it-all zoom sounds like freedom until you hit the usual traps: soft corners, jittery focus, and a slow aperture right when you need light. The video takes the Tamron 25-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III VXD G2 into an actual portrait shoot and treats it like a real tool, not a spec sheet.

[ Read More ]

The photography internet loves a good "this technology is dead" narrative, and mechanical shutters have been on the chopping block for years. Every time a manufacturer announces a new mirrorless body with blazing electronic shutter speeds, someone declares that physical shutter curtains are finally obsolete. The reality is considerably more interesting. Both shutter types remain genuinely useful tools, each with scenarios where it clearly outperforms the other. Understanding when to reach for each option will make you a more capable photographer than simply leaving your camera on its default mode.

[ Read More ]

Xtra is an innovative U.S.-registered startup founded by an experienced team dedicated to advancing imaging technology. Having established a strong foundation with products such as the Xtra Muse, Xtra Sphra360, Xtra Edge and Xtra Edge Pro.Xtra’s latest product is aimed at those needing a lightweight, highly versatile solution to film BTS and POV content on the move. They call it Atto. And looking at the specs, it’s rather impressive!

[ Read More ]

Gear guilt is real when you’ve got a closet full of tools and a nagging feeling that the next purchase will finally fix your work. The smarter question is when equipment actually earns its keep and when it just sits there, quietly draining cash and attention.

[ Read More ]

Photoshop 27.3.0 just dropped, and it targets the exact spots where edits bog down: local contrast tweaks, expansion quality, and cleanup around faces. If you do any real retouching work, this update changes what you can trust inside one PSD without detouring into other dialogs.

[ Read More ]

You can get a sharp foreground and a sharp horizon without living at f/16, and without turning your hike into a tripod march. This video shows how focus stacking in Photoshop can clean up the usual weak spot in wide landscape shots, the near stuff that never lands in focus.

[ Read More ]

 

Now that the trees are bare, they can make better subjects for line-based shots of them as there are no leaves to distract from the trunk.
 

1. A Walk In The Woods

Densely wooded areas can make interesting patterns when shot straight on. Just watch your exposure as it can be a little dark. As a result, you may need slightly longer shutter speeds and for this, you will need to carry your tripod.
 

2. Visit The Park 

Venture to your park and take a walk around the paths and you're sure to find trees at either side of you. If you have a particularly long row of trees where the canopy stretches over the path, try standing at one end and use your telephoto lens to exaggerate the length of the lines. If the canopy is rather thick you may need longer exposure times. Just watch out for blurred leaves if you do opt to use them as anything that moves will be blurred in the final shot.

 

 

3. Guide The Eye

An empty path dusted with autumn leaves surrounded by two lines of trees looks great but make the most of the long lines and use them to guide the eye through the image to an object at the other side. In a park, this could be a museum, bench, a statue or even someone walking their dog. 

A telephoto lens is perfect for this type of photography, as it can make the tree lines look like they last forever, adding a further sense of mystery to the shot.

 

4. Fog & Mist

If you have a misty/foggy day use the weather conditions to bring a bit of mystery to the shot, hiding what's at the end of the path of trees. Try experimenting with slow shutter speeds too as you can turn the fog into a smooth river that circles the trees. This effect will work really well when the trees have shredded all of their leaves leaving the skeleton of branches behind.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

You've captured what you believe is the perfect sunset. The light was extraordinary, your composition was deliberate, and the histogram looked pristine. You import the file into Lightroom or Photoshop, apply a standard S-curve to add some contrast, and suddenly your beautiful sky transforms from a smooth gradient into something resembling a topographic map. Instead of that seamless transition from warm orange to deep blue, you're looking at a series of ugly, jagged steps. What happened?

[ Read More ]

Lightroom can make a flat landscape feel like it has a clear subject, but only if you control where the light goes. This video shows how simple masks can push attention without turning the edit into a fake-looking mess.

[ Read More ]

Photography arguments don’t stall because people are uninformed. They stall because professionals, hobbyists, and spectators speak from different realities while using the same language. This text maps the fault lines that make most debates structurally impossible.

[ Read More ]

I have long wavered between being a "bag 'o primes" shooter and a zoom lens shooter in my personal work. Sure, as a photojournalist and sports photographer, the choice was always easy: zooms. But for everything else, are zooms the best choice?

[ Read More ]

If you use Lightroom Classic, masking is the line between “good enough” and an edit that looks intentional. This video focuses on the masking tools that let you target light, color, and texture without pushing the whole frame in the same direction.

[ Read More ]

A wedding job can look like a Saturday with a camera, until someone vanishes and couples are left staring at a calendar with no plan. The video takes that nightmare scenario and turns it into a blunt checklist for how you avoid becoming the person everyone warns about.

[ Read More ]

 

Spring may be a long way off but this doesn't mean you have to wait until flowers start raising their heads out of the ground to start photographing them. Your local florist or supermarket will have a selection of flowers you can take home and turn into a photographic subject all year round and the best bit is that you get to stay warm and dry as you can shoot your images from the comfort of your home.

 

1. Gear Choices 

When it comes to gear, a compact with macro capabilities can work just as well as a more advanced camera that uses interchangeable lenses so don't be put off if you don't have a macro lens and DSLR in your camera bag. A tripod's always handy but as you're working indoors you don't have to worry about using anything too robust and you can use a variety of light sources (something we discuss further into the piece).
 

2. Backgrounds

A sheet of white Colormatt makes a good background but you can also use a white sheet of paper, material or anything else you think will work well! A white nylon shower curtain or even unbleached baking paper can work well when using natural light as they can easily be taped to windows. A Wimberley Plamp is useful for holding backgrounds in place as long as you have somewhere sturdy for the other end to clip on to. A Spare tripod or even a light stand will work well as your support for the clamp but if you don't have a clamp, taping your background to the stand can work just as well. Clothes rails also make good stands as backgrounds can be clipped to the horizontal bar you'd usually hang clothes from or you could use a still-life table if you have one. 

 

 

3. Props & Vases

Having a selection of vases and other containers to choose from will be useful as you'll not be stuck with just one option if you find it to be particularly difficult to work with and clothes pegs, masking tape and florist wire are all useful items to add to your collection of tools so you can persuade stems to go in a particular direction or move an unsightly leaf out of view. To add more height, try using plant stands or any other sturdy object that'll give you the boost in height. 
 

4. Natural Light

Working with natural light is often the easiest and cheapest option but if you do have studio lights to hand, do consider using them. If you want to get a little more creative why not try using a desk lamp or similar which has a bendy neck to make the positioning easier? Do check your white balance, though, as depending on the bulb you have in the light it may need adjusting. Reflectors will always be useful and as DIY versions are easy to make, it means you can create a tool that's great for bouncing a bit of light back into your shot rather inexpensively. All you need is a piece of card covered in foil or you could simply try using a white piece of card. 
 

5. Adjust The Flowers 

Once set up, it's important that you spend some time turning the flower(s) and adjust the positioning while looking through the viewfinder or at your camera's screen. Look from above, from underneath, the front, the back, the edge – there’s usually one angle that suddenly stands out and is 'the one' that you should shoot. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition